Richemont Q3 Revenue Up 24%

The Cartier store on 5th Avenue in New York. One of Richemont's luxury brands.

Luxury goods conglomerate Cie. Financiere Richemont SA said Monday that third quarter revenue increased 24 percent year-over-year to 2.62 billion euros ($3.32 billion) with all regions and nearly all of its brands reporting double-digit increases.

Revenue for the month of December alone rose 21 percent, compared with the same period of the prior year.

“The group’s overall performance remains solid,” said Johann Rupert, executive chairman and Group CEO. “The group’s activities over the past nine months enable us to reconfirm our expectations that operating profit for the full year will be significantly higher than last year.”

The largest increase for the Geneva-based company by region was is Asia, which reported a 36-percent rise for the period to 1.05 billion euros ($1.33 billion). Asia is now the company’s biggest market accounting for about 40 percent of total sales.

Europe, its second-largest market, saw sales increase 15 percent for the period to 914 million euros ($1.15 billion). In the Americas, revenue rose 24 percent to 382 million euros ($484 million). In Japan, revenue increased 10 percent to 272 million euros.

Among its jewelry brands (Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels) sales rose by 25 percent to $1.36 billion ($1.72 billion).

In its specialist watchmakers division (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, IWC, Baume & Mercier, Vacheron Constantin, Officine Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne and Roger Dubuis, as well as the Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry joint venture) sales increased 27 percent to 697 million euros ($884 million).

Montblanc, listed as a separate division was the only brand to post less than double-digit gains for the period at 1 percent growth to 220 million euros ($279 million).

Among brands Alfred Dunhill, Lancel, Net-a-Porter and Chloé, listed as “Other” by the company, sales rose 29 percent to 339 million euros ($430 million).

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High Flying Pandora Returns to Earth with No Growth in 2011 Revenue

A tumultuous year for Pandora came to an end after a 10-percent drop in revenue for the fourth quarter, leaving the jewelry manufacturer and designer with a 0.1 percent decrease in group revenue to 6.65 billion Danish kroner ($1.18 billion) in 2011.

This is a far cry from the spectacular results the company, known for its silver charm jewelry, reported from 2009 until the mid-year of 2011. The bottom dropped out for the fast-growing brand—a darling of investors, retailers and consumers—with a second-quarter report released in August where the company changed its outlook from expecting a revenue growth of no less than 30 percent for 2011 and an EBITDA margin of minimum 40 percent with flat revenue and EBITDA margins in the low thirties for the year. This report resulted in the immediate resignation of its CEO, Mikkel Vendelin Olesen, and a one-day 65 percent drop in the value of its stock.

The company also announced Tuesday that it has begun a campaign to buy back unsold stock from retailers for the first two quarters of the fiscal year that will negatively affect 2012 results. The company estimates that the campaign will cost 500 million to 800 million Danish kroner.

“The campaign will encourage Pandora retailers to exchange discontinued, merchandise for appropriately priced best-sellers, on a one-for-one basis,” the company said. “(It) will likely generate a corresponding negative impact, due to cannibalization of forward sales, on reported numbers across the whole of 2012.”

Among Pandora’s results for 2011:

* Sales in Americas increased 7.9 percent (12.4 percent in local currency);

* Sales in Europe fell 8.3 percent (down 7.7 percent in local currency);

* Sales in Asia Pacific decreased by 0.2 percent (down 4.3 percent in local currency);

* Gross margin increased to 73 percent in 2011 compared to 70.9 percent in 2010;

* EBITDA margin was 34.3 percent in 2011 compared to 40.3 percent in 2010;

*EBITDA decreased by 15 percent to 2.28 billion Danish kroner ($406,503 million);

* EBIT margin was 30.9 percent in 2011 compared to 36.2 percent in 2010;

 EBIT decreased by 14.8 percent to DKK 2.05 billion Danish kroner ($366,323 million);

* Reported net profit increased by 8.9 percent to DKK 2.03 billion ($362,684 million) in 2011. Adjusted for a revaluation of the CWE earn-out provision based on a revised outlook for PANDORA CWE, 2011 net profit decreased 18.4 percent to 1.52 billion Danish kroner ($247,228 million).

In its outlook, Pandora it expects 2012 revenue growth to be in mid-single digits; gross margin in the low 60s, driven by the impact of commodities prices and a reduction in our selling prices; and EBITDA margin in the mid 20s.

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Pandora’s Troubles Continue as Q2 Profit Falls 90% and Revenue Drops 9.5%

Pandora Group, home of the international silver jewelry brand that became famous for its charm jewelry, had another disappointing quarter.

The Danish company with manufacturing facilities in Thailand said that year-over-year sales for its Pandora branded jewelry fell by 9.5 percent to 1.26 billion Danish krone ($210.2 million) in the second quarter of 2012. Profit during the same period fell 89.9 percent to 63 million Danish krone ($10.5 million).

Pandora reported losses in every region it operates. The company noted that a stock rebalancing campaign launched in the first quarter is a major reason for the disappointing results, which the company said are in line with expectations. It said it received returns of discontinued products valued at 183 million krone ($30.5 million) and replaced it with 310 million Danish krone ($51.7 million) worth of new inventory.

Björn Gulden, Pandora CEO, said the company will continue with the stock rebalancing program and will cap it at 800 million krone ($133.5 million).

“The execution on the stock balancing campaign continued into Q2 2012 and was very well received by our retail partners across all our markets,” Gulden said. “Even though the stock balancing campaign, short-term, hurts our revenue, cost ratio and profitability in 2012, the campaign has proven to be the right action to help our retailers improve the quality of their stock.”

By region, revenue results are as follows:

* Americas decreased by 5.1 percent (14.6 percent decrease in local currency)

* Europe decreased by 16.6 percent (17.4 percent decrease in local currency)

* Asia Pacific decreased by 8.1 percent (14.1 percent decrease in local currency)

Branded revenue as percentage of total revenue increased to 75.3 percent in the second quarter of 2012, from 73.4 percent in Q2 2011; and gross margin was 67.9 percent in Q2 2012, compared to a gross margin of 74.4 percent in Q2 2011.

Pandora projects revenue for 2012 to be above 6 billion krone ($1 billion), down from 6.66 billion krone ($1.1 billion) in 2011.

“Feedback from our retailers on our Autumn/Winter 2012 collection has been very encouraging and with an additional 94 new Concept stores opened in H1 2012, we are on track to deliver on what we have promised the market in our financial guidance for the full year,” Gulden said.

Pandora also announced a number of organizational changes. Among them:

* Scott Burger, former COO of Pandora North America, was named president for Pandora North America, succeeding John White, who is taking up a position outside Pandora.

* Sten Daugaard, chief development officer, has been assigned to head Pandora's Asian headquarters in Hong Kong “in order to secure senior management attention to an important future region.”

* David Allen, former VP of Sales of Pandora Australia, has been named president of Pandora Australia with the responsibility for commercial operations in Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific, succeeding Karin Adcock, who retired as planned on July 1.

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Gemfields Revenue and Profit Soar

Miners hold a rough emerald from the Kagem mine in Zambia.

Colored gemstone mining and marketing company, Gemfields, reported that revenue from sales increased 108 percent to $83.7 million, year-over-year, for the year ended June 20. Pre-tax profit for the same period increased 140 percent to $47.8 million.

“They certainly are great numbers,” said Ian Harebottle, CEO of the London (AIM)-listed company, which specializes in emeralds from the Kagem mine in Zambia.

Harebottle, speaking in a video from ProactiveInvestors, said the company spent the first six months of the year focusing on waste removal on the Kagem mine, the company's largest asset and one of the world's major sources of emeralds, in order to expand production at the mine. The last six months of the year was focused on emerald production.

“We had pleasing results but our decision to remove waste and look for long term is paying off,” he said.

The company also has been working hard in diversifying its product base. It owns a 75 percent stake in the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique. The company also owns the Kariba amethyst mine in Zambia that it plans to continue to invest in.

Alexandra Mor ring with Gemfields' emerald.

In addition to its mines, the company has been involved in an international advertising campaign focusing on Zambian emeralds and, last month, launched its emerald-focused campaign in the U.S. by having a number of jewelry designers make pieces with its Zambian emeralds.

The company’s cash balance nearly tripled to $36.7 million. Harebottle said that money will not be used for stock dividends but instead will be invested in the growth and diversification plans of the company.

“I believe right now if we could use it within the business, we’ll put it to much better use in terms of shareholder return,” he said.

Below is a video of Harebottle's interview with ProactiveInvestors:

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LVMH Watch and Jewelry Revenue Down 1%

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said Monday that first quarter revenue for its Watches and Jewelry division fell 1 percent to 624 million euros ($815.6 million) due to cautious buying by multi-brand retailers. It was the only business division in the luxury goods conglomerate to show a decline in revenue for the period. In organic terms (with comparable structure and constant exchange rates), revenue grew 2 percent.

TAG Heuer’s first quarter was marked by the 50th anniversary of its Carrera line and the new partnership with McLaren which was announced at the Geneva Motor Show. Hublot and Zenith also had a good start to the year. In jewelry, Bulgari “recorded strong revenue growth in its own stores,” largely based on the success of its Serpenti line.

Other brands in the division are Hublot, Zenith, Chaumet, Fred and De Beers Diamond Jewellers.

LVMH said total revenue for the 2013 fiscal year increased 6 percent to 6.94 billion euros ($9.07 billion). Organic revenue growth was 7 percent compared to the same period in 2012, which saw a sharp rise.

The Paris-based conglomerate—whose brands also include Moët Chandon, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Sephora—said it saw “strong growth” in Asia and the United States, while Europe “demonstrates good resistance despite a challenging economic environment.”

First quarter results in its other business division are as follows:

The Wines & Spirits division recorded a revenue rise of 6 percent. Champagne sales were “notably robust” in Asia, which compensated for softer demand in Europe. Hennessy cognac had a “solid performance” in the United States and “rapid growth” in China.

The Fashion & Leather Goods division was nearly flat year-over (0.4%) Louis Vuitton “continued its progress,” the company said. Fendi “benefited from continued developments in fur and leather and pursues” and Céline “made excellent progress” in its own stores.

Perfumes & Cosmetics division experienced a 5 percent increase for the period. Christian Dior recorded “solid growth” due to the “vitality of its perfumes and, in particular, the continued strength of J’adore, Miss Dior and Dior Homme. The new lipstick Dior Addict and the premium skincare Prestige also contributed to the brand’s growth. Guerlain continued to benefit from the strong momentum of La Petite Robe Noire and the success of its high-end skincare Orchidée Impériale,” the company said.

In the Selective Retailing division showed a 16 percent increase for the period. DFS had an “excellent performance driven by the continued growth in Asian tourism.” Sephora gained market share in all its regions as it continues to expand its global store network. Online sales also experienced “rapid growth.”

“In an economic environment which remains uncertain in Europe, LVMH will continue to focus its efforts on developing its brands, will maintain a strict control over costs and will target its investments on the quality, the excellence and the innovation of its products and their distribution,” the company said. 


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Pandora Jewelry Q2 Revenue Up 53%

Pandora charm bracelet

Danish jewelry company, Pandora, continues its comeback that began to show promise earlier this year with a year-over-year 53 percent increase in revenue to 1.9 billion kroner ($343 million) for the second quarter of 2013. Net income rose 22 percent for the period to 431 million kroner ($76.5 million).

The company did note that comparable figures for the second quarter of 2012 were impacted by the company’s stock balancing campaign conducted in 2012, where it replaced unwanted products after demand collapsed two years ago.

The international company known for its charm jewelry and silver jewelry posted robust double-digit sales growth in all regions where it operates:

• Americas increased by 52.1 percent (54.3% increase in local currency)
• US increased 53.9 percent (55.6% increase in local currency)
• Europe increased by 59.3 percent (59.8% increase in local currency)
• Asia Pacific increased by 43.5 percent (42.4% increase in local currency)

Gross profit for the quarter increased 49 percent to 1.27 billion Danish kroner ($225 million). This corresponds to a gross margin of 66 percent, compared to 67.9 percent in the second quarter of 2012 and 65.6 percent in the first quarter of 2013. The company said the decrease in gross margin was primarily due to the expiration of the suspension of import duties on goods from Thailand (where the company manufactures its jewelry) into the U.S. “The increase in the gross margin compared to Q1 2013, was due to a decrease in commodity prices,” the company said.

EBITDA for the second quarter increased by 140.9 percent to 530 million Danish kroner ($94.1 million) resulting in an EBITDA margin of 27.4 percent, compared to 17.5 percent in the same period of the prior year. 

Pandora—which designs, manufacturers, markets and sells its jewelry wholesale and retail—said its volumes increased by 40 percent year-over-year and the average sales price increased nearly 9 percent.

On 30 July 2013, Pandora is sticking to an upgrade in its financial guidance, first announced July 30, to 8 billion kroner ($1.42 billion), compared with its previous guidance of 7.2 billion kroner and expects an EBITDA margin of approximately 27 percent, up two points from its previous guidance.

The company also plans to increase the number of its popular “concept stores” that it plans to open for the year, from 150 to 175.

“The solid performance reported for Q1 2013 has continued across all major markets in the second quarter, with strong sales from newly launched products, high replenishment rates and healthy sell-out from the concept stores,” said Allan Leighton, Pandora CEO. “Our strategy of delivering affordable luxury is becoming increasingly relevant, and although there are still many areas in which we can improve we are pleased with our progress.”

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Zale Q4 Comps Up 5.6%, Revenue Loss Narrows to $8 Million

Comps at Zales Jewelers (pictured) and Zales Outlet increased 8.1%.

Fine jewelry retailer Zale Corp. said Wednesday that year-over-year revenues for the fourth quarter increased 2.4 percent to $417 million. Comparable store sales for the period increased 5.6 percent. This increase follows an 8.3 percent rise in the same period last year. At constant exchange rates, comparable store sales increased 5.8 percent.

Net loss in the fourth quarter for the company, which owns retail jewelry chains in the US, Canada and Puerto Rico, narrowed to $8 million, or 25 cents per share, compared to a net loss of $20 million, or 61 cents per share, in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2012.

Other fourth quarter highlights include:

* Zales branded stores, Zales Jewelers and Zales Outlet, posted a comparable store sales increase of 8.1 percent. This follows a 12.3 percent rise in the same period last year.

* U.S. fine jewelry brands, including Zales branded stores and regional brand, Gordon’s Jewelers, posted a comparable store sales increase of 7.2 percent. This follows an 11.2 percent rise in the same period last year.

* Peoples branded stores posted a comparable store sales increase of 5.6 percent. This follows a 4.7 percent rise in the same period last year. At constant exchange rates, comparable store sales increased 7 percent in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2013, following an increase of 9.9 percent in the same period last year.

* Canadian fine jewelry brands, Peoples Jewellers and Mappins Jewellers, posted a comparable store sales increase of 3.3 percent. This follows a 2 percent rise in the same period last year. At constant exchange rates, comparable store sales increased 4.7 percent in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2013, following an increase of 7.1 percent in the same period last year.

* Piercing Pagoda, Zale’s kiosk jewelry business, posted a comparable store sales increase of 0.3 percent. In the same period last year, comparable store sales rose 2.7 percent.

Gross margin on sales rose sharply to $222 million, or 53.1 percent, compared to $210 million, or 51.6 percent, in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2012. Operating margin increased 120 basis points.

Operating loss was $3 million, or 0.7 percent of revenues, compared to an operating loss of $8 million, or 1.9 percent of revenues, in the fourth quarter of the prior year.

For the 2013 fiscal year, the company reported a six-year high in net earnings of $10 million, or $0.24 diluted earnings per share, up $37 million, or $1.09 per share. The company said this is a six-year high.

Comparable store sales rose 3.3 percent for the year with Zales branded stores up 4.7 percent and Peoples branded stores up 4.8 percent at constant exchange rates. Gross margin was up 60 basis points to 52.1 percent and operating margin increased 90 basis points to 1.9 percent.

“For the year we achieved a significant milestone by delivering our highest net income in six years,” Theo Killion, Zale Corp. CEO, said in a statement.

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