Pandora’s Troubles Continue as Q2 Profit Falls 90% and Revenue Drops 9.5%

Pandora Group, home of the international silver jewelry brand that became famous for its charm jewelry, had another disappointing quarter.

The Danish company with manufacturing facilities in Thailand said that year-over-year sales for its Pandora branded jewelry fell by 9.5 percent to 1.26 billion Danish krone ($210.2 million) in the second quarter of 2012. Profit during the same period fell 89.9 percent to 63 million Danish krone ($10.5 million).

Pandora reported losses in every region it operates. The company noted that a stock rebalancing campaign launched in the first quarter is a major reason for the disappointing results, which the company said are in line with expectations. It said it received returns of discontinued products valued at 183 million krone ($30.5 million) and replaced it with 310 million Danish krone ($51.7 million) worth of new inventory.

Björn Gulden, Pandora CEO, said the company will continue with the stock rebalancing program and will cap it at 800 million krone ($133.5 million).

“The execution on the stock balancing campaign continued into Q2 2012 and was very well received by our retail partners across all our markets,” Gulden said. “Even though the stock balancing campaign, short-term, hurts our revenue, cost ratio and profitability in 2012, the campaign has proven to be the right action to help our retailers improve the quality of their stock.”

By region, revenue results are as follows:

* Americas decreased by 5.1 percent (14.6 percent decrease in local currency)

* Europe decreased by 16.6 percent (17.4 percent decrease in local currency)

* Asia Pacific decreased by 8.1 percent (14.1 percent decrease in local currency)

Branded revenue as percentage of total revenue increased to 75.3 percent in the second quarter of 2012, from 73.4 percent in Q2 2011; and gross margin was 67.9 percent in Q2 2012, compared to a gross margin of 74.4 percent in Q2 2011.

Pandora projects revenue for 2012 to be above 6 billion krone ($1 billion), down from 6.66 billion krone ($1.1 billion) in 2011.

“Feedback from our retailers on our Autumn/Winter 2012 collection has been very encouraging and with an additional 94 new Concept stores opened in H1 2012, we are on track to deliver on what we have promised the market in our financial guidance for the full year,” Gulden said.

Pandora also announced a number of organizational changes. Among them:

* Scott Burger, former COO of Pandora North America, was named president for Pandora North America, succeeding John White, who is taking up a position outside Pandora.

* Sten Daugaard, chief development officer, has been assigned to head Pandora's Asian headquarters in Hong Kong “in order to secure senior management attention to an important future region.”

* David Allen, former VP of Sales of Pandora Australia, has been named president of Pandora Australia with the responsibility for commercial operations in Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific, succeeding Karin Adcock, who retired as planned on July 1.

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Gemfields Revenue and Profit Soar

Miners hold a rough emerald from the Kagem mine in Zambia.

Colored gemstone mining and marketing company, Gemfields, reported that revenue from sales increased 108 percent to $83.7 million, year-over-year, for the year ended June 20. Pre-tax profit for the same period increased 140 percent to $47.8 million.

“They certainly are great numbers,” said Ian Harebottle, CEO of the London (AIM)-listed company, which specializes in emeralds from the Kagem mine in Zambia.

Harebottle, speaking in a video from ProactiveInvestors, said the company spent the first six months of the year focusing on waste removal on the Kagem mine, the company's largest asset and one of the world's major sources of emeralds, in order to expand production at the mine. The last six months of the year was focused on emerald production.

“We had pleasing results but our decision to remove waste and look for long term is paying off,” he said.

The company also has been working hard in diversifying its product base. It owns a 75 percent stake in the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique. The company also owns the Kariba amethyst mine in Zambia that it plans to continue to invest in.

Alexandra Mor ring with Gemfields' emerald.

In addition to its mines, the company has been involved in an international advertising campaign focusing on Zambian emeralds and, last month, launched its emerald-focused campaign in the U.S. by having a number of jewelry designers make pieces with its Zambian emeralds.

The company’s cash balance nearly tripled to $36.7 million. Harebottle said that money will not be used for stock dividends but instead will be invested in the growth and diversification plans of the company.

“I believe right now if we could use it within the business, we’ll put it to much better use in terms of shareholder return,” he said.

Below is a video of Harebottle's interview with ProactiveInvestors:

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Pandora Produces Charming Q3 Sales and Profit Gains

Danish jewelry company Pandora said Tuesday that third quarter revenue increased 14.3 percent, year-over-year, to DKK 1.79 billion ($308 million) with double-digit gains across all geographical markets. Net profit for the period increased by 11.4 percent to DKK 380 million ($65.2 million).

This is a strong turnaround when compared with second quarter results in which the company—best known for the manufacture, distribution and marketing of silver charm jewelry—said its sales fell by 9.5 percent to 1.26 billion DKK ($210.2 million) with profit during the same period down 89.9 percent to 63 million DKK ($10.5 million).

Pandora also said Tuesday that its stock balancing plan (replacing discontinued stock) is continuing as planned. In the third quarter, the company received returns of discontinued products with a wholesale value of DKK 86 million ($14.7 million), and replaced it with merchandising costing DKK 127 million ($21.8 million). In 2012 Pandora received returns of discontinued products valued at DKK 609 million ($104.6 million), and replaced DKK 599 million ($102.8 million).

Revenue by geographic region is as follows:

• Americas increased by 21.9 percent (9.5 percent in local currency), with U.S. sales up 15.8 percent (2.6 percent in local currency).
• Europe increased by 13.1 percent (11 percent in local currency).
• Asia Pacific decreased by 10.7 percent (17.3 percent in local currency).

Branded revenue as percentage of total revenue increased to 81.3 percent, compared with 73.6 percent in third quarter of 2011. Gross margin was 64.1 percent, compared with 73.6 percent in the third quarter of 2011.

EBITDA margin was 28 percent, compared with 34.2 percent in Q3 2011, a decrease of 6.2 percent to DKK 503 million ($86.3 million). EBIT margin was 25.8 percent compared with 32.2 percent in Q3 2011, an 8.5 percent drop to DKK 463 million ($79.5 million).

The company, which sells its jewelry through retail jewelers and its own branded retail stores, updated its outlook, saying it expects revenue for 2012 to be above DKK 6.3 billion ($1.08 billion), from its previous guidance above DKK 6 billion.

“I am happy to report that we continue to perform in line with our ‘18 months turn-around plan,’” said Björn Gulden, Pandora CEO. “Third quarter developed even a little better than we expected and we have, based on the tailwind from the currency development, decided to slightly upgrade our revenue guidance. One of our major initiatives ‘The stock balancing campaign’ was continued, mainly impacting the U.S. and third-party distribution, during Q3 2012. We have now largely concluded the campaign and it will, as communicated earlier, be finished by end of 2012.”

Gulden added its spring merchandise sold well and its fall merchandise had a strong start for the third quarter.

“The year is not yet finished,” he said. “We have our most important quarter to come, but we feel confident that our improved product, our lower prices and our other operational improvements will put us in the position of achieving our updated financial goals for the full year.”

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Richemont Sales Up 21%, Profit Up 52%

Swiss luxury goods conglomerate, Compagnie Financière Richemont, said Friday that sales increased, year-over-year, for the first half of the fiscal year by 21 percent to €5.1 billion ($6.5 billion). By constant exchange rates sales grew 12 percent.

Profit for the period rose 52 percent to €1.08 billion ($1.37 billion); with operating profit up by 28 percent to €1.38 billion ($1.75 billion), benefiting from favorable currency movements, and gross profit up 24 percent to €3.31 billion ($4.2 billion). Operating margin gained 150 basis points to reach 27 percent.

The Geneva-based company cited “solid growth in all segments, regions and channels” along with favorable currency rates and Asian tourism in Europe for the strong performance.

Richemont owns many of the world’s best-known luxury brands (known as “maisons” by the company) including Cartier, Montblanc, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget. It also has wholesale businesses and owns the luxury retail website, Net-A-Porter.com. A list of its businesses can be found by following this link.

“The Group’s maisons benefited from favorable exchange rates effects, successful product launches as well as strong pricing power,” said Johann Rupert, Richemont executive chairman and CEO. “The increase in net profit was well above the prior period, reflecting both the growth in operating results and the non-recurrence of non-cash losses, which stemmed from the Swiss franc’s appreciation against the euro.”

He added, “Sales growth rates moderated, as evidenced by the October sales which grew by 12 percent at actual exchange rates. At constant exchange rates, they were 7 percent higher. Richemont is seeing good growth in Europe, supported by Asian tourism which is compensating for slower domestic Asia Pacific sales. Retail continued to lead wholesale, reflecting robust jewelry sales.”

Rupert did warn that sales and profits could slow as exchange rates will like be “less favorable” for the remainder of the fiscal year.

By region the company reported that sales in Europe accounted for 36 percent of overall sales as the region enjoyed good growth, with tourists driving the above-average increase. The highest growth rates were in the Maisons’ own boutiques in tourist destinations, including the Middle East. Europe’s reported a 23 percent growth in sales for the period to €1.85 billion ($2.35). At constant exchange rates, sales increased by 19 percent.

Asia Pacific remains the strongest region for Richemont but sales growth has slowed. The region accounted for 41 percent of the Group’s total, with Hong Kong and mainland China the two largest markets. “Sales growth in our maisons’ own boutiques in the region was well above the increase in sales to wholesale partners, partly reflecting the number of boutique openings in the last two years,” the company said. Asia reported a 22 percent growth in sales for the period to €2.1 billion ($2.67). At constant exchange rates, sales increased 9 percent.

After two years of what the company termed as “outstanding sales,” the Americas region reported that sales grew 16 percent to €698 million ($877 million). However, at constant exchange rates, growth was 4 percent. The region represented 14 percent of overall sales for Richemont.

Japan, which Richemont lists separately, saw what the company terms as “continued momentum” in sales in all retail segments. The struggling market saw its sales increase by 18 percent to €448 million ($570 million). At constant exchange rates the increase was 4 percent.

Its group of jewelry brands saw sales grow by 20 percent to €2.6 billion ($3.3 billion) with operating results of €958 ($1.21 billion), a 31 percent increase. Operating margin gained 280 basis points to reach 36.7 percent.

Meanwhile, its specialist watchmakers group reported that sales increased 25 percent to €1.46 billion ($1.85 billion) with operating results of €470 ($592 million), a 51 percent increase. Operating margin gained 560 basis points to reach 32.2 percent.

Montblanc, the German brand known for its luxury writing instruments but also manufactures and sells luxury leather goods, jewelry and watches, is listed separately by Richemont. It reported that its sales increased 10 percent to €368 million ($468 million) with operating results of €53 million ($67.3 million), a 2 percent decline. Operating margin lost 180 basis points to reach 14.4 percent. Richemont said that Montblanc doesn’t benefit much from sales in tourist destinations.

For its other businesses—which includes Richemont’s Fashion and Accessories businesses, Net-a-Porter and watch component manufacturing activities—results are as follows:

* Fashion & Accessories maisons saw double-digit sales growth and operating profits were in line with the prior period at €25 million.

* Sales growth at Net-a-Porter is “normalizing” but continues to exceed the Group’s average. Net-a-Porter reduced its losses during the period, but generated a positive operating cashflow.

* Losses at the Group’s watch component manufacturing facilities were in line with the comparative period.

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Luxury Brands Lift PPR’s Sales and Profit for 2012

PPR, the Parisian holdings company, said net profit in 2012 increased by 28.2 percent to €1.27 billion ($1.7 billion). Revenue increased 20.8 percent to €9.73 billion ($13 billion).

The company, which has divided its high-end businesses into the categories of luxury and sport and lifestyle, said its luxury goods division reported a 27.6 percent increase in operating profit to €1.61 billion ($2.14 billion). This more than offset a 12.1 percent decline in operating profit in its sports and lifestyle division.

The company’s brands include Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Qeelin and Puma. 

Read PPR Shopping for Jewelry and Watch Brands

“PPR's results for 2012 are excellent, thanks to the exceptional performances of all brands in our luxury division,” said François-Henri Pinault, PPR chairman and CEO. “Our strong performance also highlights the good geographic balance of our activities and the consistency of the Group's strategy.”

The company, which operates in more than 120 countries, said revenue generated outside the Eurozone rose 11.6 percent in 2012 based on comparable data and accounted for 78.6 percent of sales for the year, versus 77.9 percent in 2011. Sales contribution from France remained unchanged from 2011, representing 5.5 percent of total revenue on a comparable basis.

In 2012, PPR said it continued its expansion in rapid-growth markets where revenue advanced 13.7 percent on a comparable basis and accounted for 37.6 percent of sales, representing a 100 basis-point increase on 2011 on a comparable basis. Sales in the Asia-Pacific region (excluding Japan) accounted for 25 percent of the total sales of the Group's brands versus 24.5 percent in 2011 on a comparable basis.

The company also is in the process of strengthening its position in the luxury and sports and lifestyle categories while divesting its holdings in other areas. For example, in December 2012, it acquired of a majority stake in Chinese luxury jewelry brand, Qeelin, and last month announced it acquired a majority stake in the luxury designer brand, Christopher Kane. It is also announced in January that it has found a buyer for Redcats children and family divisions.

The company added that it’s in the process of speeding up and expanding the scope of its transformation of Puma “in order to increase efficiencies in terms of organization, processes and systems and to streamline its cost structure, notably in Europe.” In October, Jean-François Palus was appointed chairman of the Administrative Board of Puma SE, replacing Jochen Zeitz.


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Blue Nile Q1 Sales Up 16.9%, Profit Exceeds $800,000

The year has begun well for Blue Nile, Inc. The online diamond and jewelry retailer said Thursday that net sales increased 16.9 percent to $97.1 million for the first quarter ended March 31, led by a near 20-percent increase in U.S. engagement jewelry sales and overall strong growth in all markets.

Net income totaled $832,000, or $0.07 per diluted share, compared with $154,000 in the first quarter of 2012. Operating income for the period totaled $1.2 million, representing an operating margin of 1.2 percent of net sales.

Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for the quarter totaled $3.1 million. For the trailing 12-month period ended March 31, net cash provided by operating activities totaled $21.3 million compared to $18.4 million for the same period of the prior year. For the same trailing 12-month period, non-GAAP free cash flow totaled $18.6 million.

“We are pleased to announce significant revenue growth along with expanding profitability in the first quarter of 2013,” said Harvey Kanter, Blue Nile president and CEO. “Clearly our value proposition continues to resonate with consumers, both in the U.S. and internationally.”

Other first quarter 2013 highlights for the Seattle-based company include:

* U.S. engagement net sales increased 19 percent to $55.3 million.

* U.S. non-engagement net sales increased 7.4 percent to $24.2 million.

* International net sales increase of 24.8 percent to $17.6 million. Excluding the impact from foreign exchange rates, international net sales increased 25.9 percent.

* Gross profit totaled $17.6 million. As a percent of net sales, gross profit was 18.2 percent compared to 18.4 percent for the first quarter of 2012.

* Selling, general and administrative expenses for the first quarter 2013 were $16.5 million, compared to $15.1 million in the first quarter of 2012. This includes stock-based compensation expense of $1.1 million for the first quarter of 2013 and 2012.

* Earnings per diluted share for the first the period included stock based compensation expense of $0.05 compared to $0.05 for the first quarter of 2012.

* Cash and cash equivalents totaled $40.5 million.

In its guidance Blue Nile said it expects net sales in the second quarter to be between $100 million and $105 million with earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.13 to $0.17.

The company also said that net sales for fiscal year 2013 (ending December 29) are expected to be between $440 million and $470 million with earnings per diluted share projected at $0.75 to $0.85.

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Pandora Jewelry Returns to Strong Profit And Growth

Pandora—whose short history as a publicly traded company was marked by spectacular growth followed by an even more spectacular fall—is back on track dramatically increasing its sales and profit for the first quarter of 2013.

The Danish company, known for its popular charm bracelets, said Tuesday that group revenue for the period increased 40 percent year-over-year to 2.002 billion Danish krones ($348.6 million). Profits increased 29.6 percent DKK 438 million ($76.3 million).

The international company—which manufactures, distributes, retails and markets its branded jewelry—reported extremely strong increases in all regions of the world where it operates. Its regional breakdown for the first quarter is as follows:

* Americas: Up 38 percent (38.6 percent in local currency);
* Europe: Up 50.4 percent (50.6 percent in local currency); and
* Asia Pacific: Up 26.1 percent (27.7 percent in local currency).

The company noted that as it expected, gross margin fell to 65.6 percent for the period, compared to a gross margin of 71.6 percent in the first quarter of 2012. The company did not give a reason for this expected drop. 

“Although it is still early in the year, we have had a strong start,” said Pandora CEO Bjørn Gulden, who will leave the company at the end of the month to join sports brand Puma. “Revenue and earnings increased across all regions, positively impacted by the delivery of the Valentine's Day collection in Q1 2013, instead of, as historically, in the fourth quarter. Even more importantly, our sales-out in ‘Concept’ stores (branded stores owned by the company) has also strengthened with double digit growth in our four major markets. Some of this increase is due to the fact that Easter was in Q1 this year compared to Q2 last year, but we believe most of it is due to better products, improved marketing and better execution in the stores.”

The company’s financial guidance was unchanged from the prior quarter. It expects revenue of to be above DKK 7.2 billion ($1.25 billion) and expects an EBITDA margin above 25 percent.

Other highlights of the first quarter 2013 report

* EBITDA increased by 60.3 percent to DKK 643 million ($112 million), corresponding to an EBITDA margin of 32.1 percent, compared to an EBITDA margin of 28.2 percent in the first quarter of 2012.
 
* Free cash flow was DKK 406 million ($70.6 million), compared to DKK 118 million ($20.5 million) in the first quarter of 2012.
 
* Pandora bought back 398,153 shares corresponding to DKK 61 million ($10.6 million) as part of the on-going DKK 700 million ($121.8 million) share buyback program.
 
* Pandora expects to open approximately 150 Concept stores in 2013.

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