Double Digit Growth for Israel’s Diamond Exports and Imports in 2011

Israel Diamond Institute

The Israeli Diamond Industry reports that it concluded 2011 with double-digit growth in exports and imports. This was achieved despite a slowdown in activity reported in the global diamond industry in the fourth quarter of 2011.

Israel’s total net polished diamond exports increased 23.5 percent in 2011 over 2010, reaching $7.2 billion. Net exports of rough diamonds rose 14.9 percent for the year to $3.5 billion. Net imports of polished diamonds in 2011 jumped 34.7 percent to 5.7 billion while net imports of rough diamonds were up 17.5 percent over 2010 to $4.4 billion.

The United States remained Israel’s major export market for polished diamonds, with 39 percent of the total. This was followed by Hong Kong 26 percent, Switzerland 6 percent, India 5 percent, United Kingdom 3 percent and the rest of the world 21 percent.

Net polished exports to the US stood at $2.8 billion, Hong Kong $1.9 billion, Switzerland $420 million, India $341 million and the UK $205 million.

“The year 2011 began with record growth in the first three quarters in all parameters, balanced out to some degree by a worldwide slowdown later in the year,” said Moti Ganz, Israel Diamond Institute chairman. “In 2011 we have exceeded our polished diamond export figures of 2007, which stood at $7.1 billion before the start of the economic crisis. This is clear testimony to the strength and vitality of the Israeli Diamond Industry.”

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High Flying Pandora Returns to Earth with No Growth in 2011 Revenue

A tumultuous year for Pandora came to an end after a 10-percent drop in revenue for the fourth quarter, leaving the jewelry manufacturer and designer with a 0.1 percent decrease in group revenue to 6.65 billion Danish kroner ($1.18 billion) in 2011.

This is a far cry from the spectacular results the company, known for its silver charm jewelry, reported from 2009 until the mid-year of 2011. The bottom dropped out for the fast-growing brand—a darling of investors, retailers and consumers—with a second-quarter report released in August where the company changed its outlook from expecting a revenue growth of no less than 30 percent for 2011 and an EBITDA margin of minimum 40 percent with flat revenue and EBITDA margins in the low thirties for the year. This report resulted in the immediate resignation of its CEO, Mikkel Vendelin Olesen, and a one-day 65 percent drop in the value of its stock.

The company also announced Tuesday that it has begun a campaign to buy back unsold stock from retailers for the first two quarters of the fiscal year that will negatively affect 2012 results. The company estimates that the campaign will cost 500 million to 800 million Danish kroner.

“The campaign will encourage Pandora retailers to exchange discontinued, merchandise for appropriately priced best-sellers, on a one-for-one basis,” the company said. “(It) will likely generate a corresponding negative impact, due to cannibalization of forward sales, on reported numbers across the whole of 2012.”

Among Pandora’s results for 2011:

* Sales in Americas increased 7.9 percent (12.4 percent in local currency);

* Sales in Europe fell 8.3 percent (down 7.7 percent in local currency);

* Sales in Asia Pacific decreased by 0.2 percent (down 4.3 percent in local currency);

* Gross margin increased to 73 percent in 2011 compared to 70.9 percent in 2010;

* EBITDA margin was 34.3 percent in 2011 compared to 40.3 percent in 2010;

*EBITDA decreased by 15 percent to 2.28 billion Danish kroner ($406,503 million);

* EBIT margin was 30.9 percent in 2011 compared to 36.2 percent in 2010;

 EBIT decreased by 14.8 percent to DKK 2.05 billion Danish kroner ($366,323 million);

* Reported net profit increased by 8.9 percent to DKK 2.03 billion ($362,684 million) in 2011. Adjusted for a revaluation of the CWE earn-out provision based on a revised outlook for PANDORA CWE, 2011 net profit decreased 18.4 percent to 1.52 billion Danish kroner ($247,228 million).

In its outlook, Pandora it expects 2012 revenue growth to be in mid-single digits; gross margin in the low 60s, driven by the impact of commodities prices and a reduction in our selling prices; and EBITDA margin in the mid 20s.

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India’s Diamond Growth to Slow Due to Lack of Rough

Photo credit: De Beers Group

Exports of gems and jewelry from India are expected to rise 5 to 7 percent in 2012/13, a slower pace than the prior year than the estimated 9 percent growth in 2011/12 that ends in March, as sourcing of rough diamonds and color stones is the "biggest constraint," Rajiv Jain, chairman of Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, reportedly said.

Jain expects gems and jewelry exports from India to rise to $47 billion in the 2012 fiscal year, Reuters reports.

India, the largest diamond manufacturing center in the world, does not mine diamonds of its own. It depends on raw materials from Botswana, Zambia and South Africa among others for supply.

"Every mining country wants to process diamonds and color stones in their home country and increase employment there," Jain reportedly said.

Gems and jewelry amounts to 17 percent of India's total exports, and employs 1.5 million workers.

Jain reportedly said the council was focusing on Latin American countries and Commonwealth of Independent States, along with China, to promote jewelry from India, but will take time for substantial increase in the market share, Reuters reports.

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Pandora Jewelry Returns to Strong Profit And Growth

Pandora—whose short history as a publicly traded company was marked by spectacular growth followed by an even more spectacular fall—is back on track dramatically increasing its sales and profit for the first quarter of 2013.

The Danish company, known for its popular charm bracelets, said Tuesday that group revenue for the period increased 40 percent year-over-year to 2.002 billion Danish krones ($348.6 million). Profits increased 29.6 percent DKK 438 million ($76.3 million).

The international company—which manufactures, distributes, retails and markets its branded jewelry—reported extremely strong increases in all regions of the world where it operates. Its regional breakdown for the first quarter is as follows:

* Americas: Up 38 percent (38.6 percent in local currency);
* Europe: Up 50.4 percent (50.6 percent in local currency); and
* Asia Pacific: Up 26.1 percent (27.7 percent in local currency).

The company noted that as it expected, gross margin fell to 65.6 percent for the period, compared to a gross margin of 71.6 percent in the first quarter of 2012. The company did not give a reason for this expected drop. 

“Although it is still early in the year, we have had a strong start,” said Pandora CEO Bjørn Gulden, who will leave the company at the end of the month to join sports brand Puma. “Revenue and earnings increased across all regions, positively impacted by the delivery of the Valentine's Day collection in Q1 2013, instead of, as historically, in the fourth quarter. Even more importantly, our sales-out in ‘Concept’ stores (branded stores owned by the company) has also strengthened with double digit growth in our four major markets. Some of this increase is due to the fact that Easter was in Q1 this year compared to Q2 last year, but we believe most of it is due to better products, improved marketing and better execution in the stores.”

The company’s financial guidance was unchanged from the prior quarter. It expects revenue of to be above DKK 7.2 billion ($1.25 billion) and expects an EBITDA margin above 25 percent.

Other highlights of the first quarter 2013 report

* EBITDA increased by 60.3 percent to DKK 643 million ($112 million), corresponding to an EBITDA margin of 32.1 percent, compared to an EBITDA margin of 28.2 percent in the first quarter of 2012.
 
* Free cash flow was DKK 406 million ($70.6 million), compared to DKK 118 million ($20.5 million) in the first quarter of 2012.
 
* Pandora bought back 398,153 shares corresponding to DKK 61 million ($10.6 million) as part of the on-going DKK 700 million ($121.8 million) share buyback program.
 
* Pandora expects to open approximately 150 Concept stores in 2013.

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Tiffany Reports Strong Sales Growth in All Regions

Tiffany &Co. said Tuesday that worldwide net sales increased 9% year-over-year to $895 million for the first quarter of 2013. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, which excludes foreign currency fluctuations, worldwide net sales increased 13% and comparable store sales rose 8%. 

Sales growth was seen in all regions for the international luxury retailer and would have been even stronger if it was not for the unusually weak Japanese yen. 

Net earnings increased 3% to $84 million, or $0.65 per diluted share. Expenses of $9 million, or $0.05 per diluted share, were recorded in the quarter for recent staff and occupancy reductions; excluding those costs, net earnings increased 10% to $89 million, or $0.70 per diluted share. 

In addition, the company maintained its fiscal 2013 forecast of net earnings in a range of $3.43-$3.53 per diluted share. The New York-based company expects that worldwide net sales will increase by a mid-single-digit percentage in U.S dollars and a high-single-digit percentage increase on a constant-exchange-rate basis. 

"First quarter sales exceeded our expectations, enabling us to improve our sales leverage on fixed expenses and achieve earnings growth, said Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany chairman and CEO. “In addition, we celebrated Tiffany's 175th anniversary with our very successful Blue Book event and promotional activities surrounding the debut of the film The Great Gatsby, for which we designed the jewelry." 

Kowalski added, "We are maintaining our earnings forecast for the full year, mindful of continuing soft sales results in the Americas and the negative translation effect of a weaker yen…. Tiffany's global store base is growing this year with a planned net addition of 14 stores, and we will be launching our redesigned website later this year." 

Net sales by region are as follows: 

* In the Americas, total sales rose 6% to $408 million. Comparable store sales rose 3% with relatively stronger growth in the New York flagship store. Sales in New York was aided from purchases by customers who attended the Blue Book event. 

* In the Asia-Pacific region, total sales increased 15% to $223 million. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales increased 14%, due to sales growth in Greater China and most other countries. Comparable store sales rose 9%. 

* Sales in Japan increased 2% to $145 million despite a negative translation effect from a weakening yen. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales increased 20% and comparable store sales rose 21% due to particularly strong growth in Tiffany's engagement and higher-end jewelry categories.

* In Europe, total sales increased 6% to $93 million due to sales growth across continental Europe. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, total sales and comparable store sales rose 8% and 6% respectively.

*Other sales tripled to $27 million from $9 million in the prior year, primarily reflecting the conversion in July 2012 of five Tiffany stores in the United Arab Emirates from independently-operated to company-operated. 

In the first quarter, Tiffany opened one store, in Xi'an, China and closed one in Taichung, Taiwan. The Company currently operates approximately 275 stores (115 in the Americas, 66 in Asia-Pacific, 55 in Japan, 34 in Europe and five in the U.A.E.), compared with 251 stores (105 in the Americas, 59 in Asia-Pacific, 55 in Japan and 32 in Europe) a year ago. 

Tiffany said it plans to add a net of 14 company-operated stores (opening six in the Americas, seven in Asia-Pacific and three in Europe, and closing one each in Japan and Taiwan), as well as refurbishing a number of existing locations around the world. 

Gross margin (gross profit as a percentage of net sales) was 56.2% versus last year's 57.3%. The company said this was expected as it reflects a shift in sales mix toward higher-priced, lower gross margin products. 

Selling, general and administrative expenses (SG&A) increased 8% in the quarter due to  $9 million of expenses tied to cost reduction initiatives related to staffing reductions, as well as subleasing of office space at a loss, the company said. Excluding those costs, SG&A expenses would have increased 6% due to new store-related costs and higher marketing spending for the Blue Book event. 

Net inventories were $2.3 billion at April 30, 2013, or 4% higher than a year ago, the company said. A 12% increase in finished goods inventories to support new store openings and expanded product assortments was partly offset by a 5% decline in combined raw material and work-in-process inventories. On a constant-exchange-rate basis, net inventories were 7% higher than a year ago.

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Blue Nile Chairman to Step Down As Company Posts 5th Consecutive Quarter of Double-Digit Growth

Blue Nile Starlight Diamond Eternity Ring in platinum

Blue Nile, Inc. said Thursday that year-over-year net sales increased 18.7 percent to $108 million for the second quarter ended June 30. Operating income for the quarter totaled $3.4 million, representing an operating margin of 3.2 percent of net sales. Net income totaled $2.2 million, or $0.17 per diluted share. It’s the fifth consecutive quarter of double-digit growth, the company said.

In addition, the Seattle-based online retailer that specializes in diamonds and diamond jewelry announced that its founder, Mark Vadon, will step down from his role as chairman and director of the board effective December 31. Blue Nile President and CEO Harvey Kanter will assume the role of chairman.

"Founding and being a part of Blue Nile for the past 14 years has been a great honor, and I am tremendously proud of the entire team for fostering our culture of innovation and obsession over each and every customer," Vadon said. "After working with Harvey and his leadership team over the last year and seeing the impressive growth trajectory of the business, the entire board and I feel confident passing the chairmanship to Harvey to continue to build a global consumer brand."

"Mark revolutionized the diamond industry and founded Blue Nile on the principle that there is a better way to buy diamonds and fine jewelry by offering unique online tools, high quality diamonds, and incredible values," Kanter added. "That is and will always be his legacy, and the company will continue to execute his vision."

Non-GAAP adjusted EBITDA for the quarter totaled $5.5 million. For the trailing 12-month period ended June 30, net cash provided by operating activities totaled $26.1 million compared to $18.7 million for the prior 12-month period. For the same period ended June 30, non-GAAP free cash flow totaled $22.9 million, as compared to $15.6 million for the prior.

Other second quarter highlights include:

* U.S. engagement net sales increased 22 percent to $63.9 million.

* U.S. non-engagement net sales increased 11.3 percent to $27 million.

* International net sales increased 19.1 percent to $17.1 million. Excluding the impact from changes in foreign exchange rates, international net sales increased 20.6 percent.

*Gross profit totaled $20.1 million. As a percent of net sales, gross profit was 18.6 percent compared to 18.9 percent for the second quarter of 2012.

* Selling, general and administrative expenses were $16.7 million, compared to $14.9 million in the second quarter of 2012. This figure includes stock-based compensation expense of $1.3 million for the second quarter in 2013 and 2012.

* Earnings per diluted share included stock based compensation expense of $0.07 compared to $0.06 for the second quarter of 2012.

* At the end of the quarter, cash and cash equivalents totaled $47.3 million.

In its financial guidance, Blue Nile said it expects third quarter net sales are expected to be between $96 million and $100 million; and earnings per diluted share to run from $0.13 to $0.17.

For the 2013 fiscal year, net sales are projected to be between $440 million and $470 million; and earnings per diluted share are projected at $0.75 to $0.85.

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Gemfields Kagem Emerald Mine Showed Solid Annual Growth Despite Conflict With Zambian Government

Coomi 20K yellow gold with Gemfields’ Zambian emeralds, 120.34 carats and diamonds, 5.21 carats.

Production at the Gemfields Kagem emerald mine in Zambia increased 42 percent to 29.99 million carats for the 12-month period ended in June.

The average grade for the year increased 38 percent to 283 carats per ton, the company said Monday through the Proactive Investors website. Meanwhile, production costs fell 26 percent in the year.

Gemfields is a colored gemstone exploration, mining and marketing company. The Kagem mine is the London-listed company’s biggest asset and it provides nearly all of its revenue, even though it has interest in other colored gemstone mines. It owns a 75-percent share of the Kagem mine with the Zambian government owning the remaining 25 percent.

One of Gemfields other mines is the Montepuez ruby deposit in Mozambique. The company said it is on track to hold its first auction of rough rubies in the first quarter of 2014.

Gemfields also owns Fabergé, which it fully acquired in January. The company said the luxury jewelry brand achieved a record number of unit sales for the year.

A sale of lower quality emeralds in April netted $15.2 million, Gemfields said. Not included in the annual results was its latest auction of higher quality emeralds, held in the Zambian capital of Lusaka. This brought in revenues of $31.5 million, the second highest total ever for an auction of its kind.

The auction was originally scheduled in June in Singapore but pressure from the Zambian government to move the auction to Zambia caused the auction to be postponed until July, after the reporting period. Where to hold auctions has been a source of debate since April when the government of Zambia, Gemfields business partner, issued a directive for Gemfields to hold its auction within the country’s borders, citing capital flight.

Ian Harebottle, Gemfields CEO, said through Proactive Investors that communication between the two parties is now “much, much better” and more interactive.

However, Harebottle said the company continues “to seek guidance and to interact with the Government of Zambia.” Gemfields argues that it needs to sell Kagem emeralds at places that will likely get the most interest and the best price.

“While the two auctions held in Lusaka this year have certainly been successful, the key question, of course, remains what they would have generated had they been held abroad (where competing and undermining sources of supply, frequently illegal, are not readily available to our customers) and their potential impact on the long term growth of this sector,” he said.

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Swatch Group Sees Strong Growth Potential For Harry Winston

The Harry Winston salon in Paris.

The Swatch Group has big plans for the recently acquired Harry Winston brand, finding it an asset that is both complimentary and with plenty of room for growth.

The Swiss conglomerate on Tuesday for the first time partly revealed what it plans for the luxury retail brand during its earnings report for the first half of the year. The company, which now owns 20 watch and jewelry brand, said that gross sales for the period increased 8.7% year-over-year to 4.18 billion Swiss francs ($4.47 billion). Net income increased 6.1% compared to the first half of 2012 to 768 million Swiss franc ($821,700), with a 19.2% return on net sales. Sustained growth was reported in all regions.

“The continued integration of the Harry Winston brand will … make a significant contribution, as this brand has huge, almost untapped market potential in the high jewelry and watches activities,” the company said, adding that this potential will start to be seen in the second half of the fiscal year.

Swatch Group said that following its $1 billion acquisition of Harry Winston in March, the conglomerate invested in infrastructure, settled all debts, expanded its equity capital base and increase inventory. “The latter was initiated in order to ensure that our clientele has access to the best selection of jewelry as well as to increase its availability,” Swatch Group said in its earnings statement.

“The acquisition of the Harry Winston brand did more than simply round off the group’s already broad brand portfolio; it also expanded the high jewelry segment, along with the segment’s value chain from production up to and including the retail network,” Swatch added.

In May, Swatch Group, in Harry Winston’s name, purchased a 101.73-carat diamond at auction for $26.7 million and renamed it the “Winston Legacy,” explaining that it “reconfirms the number one position of this high jewelry brand.”

Swatch says that its see the luxury watch segment of the brand as having the best potential for worldwide growth.

“The Harry Winston brand has an extremely large and almost untapped potential in the watch sector, which the group now aims to expand further using its experience around the world,” the company said. “The necessary funds will also be invested into this activity.”

In fact, the acquisition led to some company restructuring by integrating the production division into the watches and jewelry business unit. “This integration will also provide a more uniform view of activities, facilitating comparability with our competitors.”

Other highlights of the company’s first-half report include:

• Benchmarked to the 1.5% export growth for wristwatches of the Swiss watch industry in the first half of 2013, the segment Watches & Jewelry (now including production) growth was more than 9%.

• An operating profit of 910 million Swiss francs ($973,500) was recorded, with an operating margin of 22.7%, despite a high marketing spend, important investments in products and production methods, and the integration of Harry Winston.

The company said its outlook “remains very promising,” expecting a strong second half. 

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