Cautious Optimism Fills Baselworld Buoyed by Asian Demand for Luxury

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his first report from the event.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

BASEL, Switzerland – Baselworld, the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry trade show, opened March 8 amid optimistic expectations by many for good business in 2012—but not too optimistic.

“We’re confident about 2012” because of strong business results in 2011, especially in luxury due to China’s appetite for it,” said Francois Thiebaud, chairman of the show’s Swiss exhibitors and president of upscale watch brand Tissot, echoing many vendors, “but we’re not overconfident. The Eurozone crisis and debt problems elsewhere could still have effects [on business].”

This 40th annual BaselWorld fair, in Basel, Switzerland, Mar. 8 – 15, has 1,815 exhibitors (608 in watches, 689 in jewelry and 518 in related products and services) from 41 countries. More than 100,000 buyers and visitors from 100 countries are coming, and all is being reported on by more than 3,000 print, TV, radio and Internet journalists from around the globe.

The reason for their interest is obvious: Because Baselworld is, in the words of Show Director Sylvie Ritter, “a microcosm, where the players from the world’s watch and jewelry industry gather for a week.” It is an important bellwether of products, innovations and trends affecting the industry, consumers, and the retail business worldwide for year ahead.

Bullish. The cautiously bullish mood among exhibitors and analysts at the show is based on strong—even record-breaking—results for watch and jewelry exports and sales in 2011, especially in the luxury sector. That’s due largely to sharply rising consumer demand in Asia, especially China, say industry analysts in Basel. These strong business statistics for 2011 came despite many economic problems affecting sales and profits worldwide, they say, including the dramatic debt crisis in many Eurozone countries, the uncertain U.S. economy and the strong Swiss franc (which weaken Swiss watchmakers’ profits). Still, “[even] in this far-from-encouraging environment,” said Jacques J. Duchêne, long-time President of the Show Exhibitors’ Committee and former Rolex SA executive, at the annual pre-show press conference, “one industry has been able to stand up well and even break numerous records—the watch and jewelry industry.”

Indeed, it has. The year 2011 was “historic,” as Duchene put it, for the Swiss watch industry. Their exports totaled 19.3 billion Swiss francs (about $21 billion), an increase of 19.2 percent, making it the best year ever in the industry’s history—rebounding from its worst in 2009. Actual pieces exported were just under 30 million.

Unquenchable. Much of that was led by the seemingly unquenchable demand in Asia for fine watches: Over half (55 percent) of the Swiss exports went to Asia, primarily China, up 48.7 percent. (North America got 14 percent while Europe got 29 percent).

Duchene was quick to point out, however, that the Swiss success is not only due to the Far East. “It’s true demand was very buoyant in Asia,” he said, “but the watch industry has built up a good reputation in all emerging countries and succeeded in creating demand, especially in the luxury-products segment.”

So, “even in the face of a rather unfavourable economic environment, we envisage export growth in 2012,” Duchene said.

The Swiss aren’t the only ones feeling bullish about 2012. Spokesmen for the German, French, Italian, Israeli and Hong Kong delegations (the latter, being the show’s second-largest) also report good sales and export results in both watches and jewelry in 2012, despite the economic challenges, again especially in the luxury sector (and again, buoyed by record Chinese consumer consumption of revelry and watches). They too were upbeat about business results for the industry in 2012. As Gaetano Calvalieri, president of The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and spokesman for the Italian delegation, noted, “consumers in Asia, especially China, will carry Italian jewelry industry to new heights.”

Even if Chinese consumption slows slightly in 2012, as some reports suggest, “Even a one digit increase in demand this year is more than last year,” said Thiebaud.

"Excellent.” Those in the gem and diamond business also expressed upbeat predictions for 2012.

Eli Avidar, Managing Director of the Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies, told its annual Baselworld luncheon that 2011 was “an excellent year” for the Israeli diamond industry, which exported $7.2 billion of polished diamond, and has “emerged from the crisis [of the 2008/2009 recession] stronger.” Again, some of this is due to Asia. “There is a steady rise in demand for large diamonds in China and we believe it will go much further,” especially is the international industry invests significantly in promoting diamonds and diamond jewelry in China. He also noted that there are “signs of recovery in the U.S. economy”—unlike Europe, where was no visible increase in diamond demand in 2001 or 2012—and we expect significant rise in demand in diamond jewelry in the U.S. this year.”

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

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Baselworld 2012 is a Smorgasbord of Horological Delights

Seiko’s Astron GPS Solar watch

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his second report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

BASEL, Switzerland — Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry trade fair is like an annual smorgasbord for watch enthusiasts, offering up everything from popularly-priced mass market watches to exquisite haute horlogerie timepieces and the 40th annual edition of this ever-expanding trade event (which runs until March 15), is no exception.

Travelers’ tool. A number of new models cater impressively to world and business travelers.

One standout is Seiko’s new Astron GPS Solar watch (top picture), presented with great flourish at the fair by Japan-based Seiko Watch Co., one of the world’s largest watchmakers. The impressive timepiece, powered by solar cells in the dial eliminating the need for batteries, can adjust itself to the time and location of the world’s 39 time zones at the gentle push of a button, thanks to signals from at least four GPS satellites, which the watch is always in contact. It is the first timepiece able to adapt immediately to all of the world’s time zones, wherever the wearer travels. That’s why Seiko calls it “the first global watch.”

Another notable timepiece in this category is Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Sky Dweller chronometer. The timepiece has a dual-time zone and an off-center innovative 24-hour display operated and adjusted by the watch’s bezel. It also has an annual calendar (the first Rolex watch to have one), uses a new movement and is the start of a new Rolex family.

Exquisite masterpiece. Meanwhile, German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original, known for mechanical masterpieces, unveiled an exquisite masterpiece. Its limited edition Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon is a world-first for world travelers, claims the company, and the “most unusual and sophisticated masterpiece in [our] history.” The complicated marvel lets a global traveler track the time of day or night simultaneously at home and while on the road in any two of the 37 world time zones. It accounts correctly for Daylight Saving Time or Standard Time, and can travel forward ‘time wise’ (Eastward) or backward (Westward). All time and date changes made by the wearer are displayed by a perpetual calendar geared to do so.

Completing this unique combination of horological complications—a world-first for mechanical watches, says the company—is a flying minute tourbillion (developed in 1920 in Glashütte). One interesting side effect: Its dial design looks like a “winking” happy face due to the placement of its day, month and day/night sundials.

If you want it, however, act quickly: The 43mm platinum timepiece is limited to 25 pieces worldwide and costs 325,000 Euros ($426,500).

Hublot $5 million watch

Of course, that’s chicken feed compared to the world’s most-expensive watch unveiled at Basel: The “Hublot $5 Million,” created by the innovative Swiss luxury watch brand. Also a world first, the 44mm mechanical timepiece is covered with 1,282 diamonds, weighing more than 100 carats, including six square stones, each more than three carats. It took one year to select the stones, and another 14 months to create the watch. Why did Hublot make it? Because it can.

Innovation & fun. The focus isn’t all on travelers watches, quartz-based technology or example of craftsmen’s art. Many of the watch business’s technological innovations in recent years have involved watches with mechanical movements (both hand-wound and self-winding). One notable at BaselWorld is Swiss watchmaker Ellicott’s tribute to John Ellicott, a 17th century English watchmaker. The watch is the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar, with a hand-wind mechanical movement measuring in at just a wispy 5.1mm.

Ritmo Mundo’s Reflex

And watches can be just plain fun, too. Ritmo Mundo’s Reflex ($150) is inspired by the “slap bracelet” from childhood. Gently tap the futuristic tongue-shaped timepiece against a wrist and the snap curl design, in brightly-colored smooth silicone immediately wraps around it, whatever the size. Its parallel-line LED digital linear display shows time and date, with numbered dots that immediately light up.

Star gazing. If BaselWorld is like a horological smorgasbord, it is also—pardon the abrupt shift in metaphor—a stage for many of the world’s celebrities,

BaselWorld isn’t only the center of the globe’s watch and jewelry business for a week. It is also a magnetic for celebrities. Among those seen during the show’s first days were international movie star, former U.S. governor and avid watch collector Arnold Schwarzenegger (stopping by to say hello to his friend Ali Soltani, owner of Ritmo Mundo watches); tennis champion Roger Federer (a Basel native) for luxury watch brand Rolex; and movie actress Cameron Diaz, brand ambassador for TAG Heuer Swiss luxury sport watches.

Also smiling prettily for their fans were Melinda Bam, Miss South Africa (brand ambassador for Jet Set watches); Alina Buchschacher Miss Switzerland (brand ambassador for Balman watches); and Justine De Jonckheere, Miss Belgium 2011, visited the show’s gemstone halls.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

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Baselworld 2012: End of an Era; Baselworld 2013: A new era begins

Inside Hall 1, the Hall of Dreams, where all the major watch brands at Baselworld 2012 are located. There will be changes among the exhibitors.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year. Fortunately, I know some of the best writers and experts in the jewelry and watch industry. One of those folks is William George Shuster who has kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his third report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

Baselworld 2012, the 40th annual edition of the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry show, may be its most successful yet.

But it also marks the end of an era for the trade fair. Indeed, there was a sense of finality about Baselworld 2012 that had nothing to do with business.

The reason: An enormous and costly restructuring of trade fair buildings and a redesign and revamping of Exhibition Square, the outdoor center of the fair, so total that international visitors and exhibitors from next year onward will not recognize the long-time fair site.

Indeed, Sylvie Ritter, the show director, called Baselworld 2012, a “milestone in the history of our trade show” and “a decisive turning point” before the “start of a new era” in 2013.

This newest modernization in a long history of renovations and expansions of the Basel fairgrounds is scheduled to finished and ready for the 41st edition of Baselworld in April 2013.

Trade show facilities that have housed the annual Baselworld and earlier Swiss watch and jewelry fair for much of the 20th and early 21st centuries are being torn down and replaced with massive new, three-story structures, costing millions of dollars. Show officials promise this enormous undertaking, the most extensive modernization and expansion of the show facilities in its history, will benefit both visitors and exhibitors immensely.

“With investments of around 430 million Swiss francs ($460 million), we will be able to provide our exhibitors, our trade visitors and our journalists with a fantastic trade show infrastructure,” said René Kamm, CEO MCH Group.

The 95-year-old Hall 1, site of  major watch brand exhibitors and the fair ground’s oldest building, will be rebuilt, with its front dismantled, and extended into the exhibition square by a three strew building. Hall 3, across the street (site for gemstone and equipment exhibitors) is being torn down and replaced also with a new three story complex, with a multifunctional event hall (capable of holding up to 2,500 people) on the ground floor. Linking these two buildings will be linked by a two-story complex (starting the second floor level of Hall One, roofing over exhibition square. The exhibition square (pictured left) itself will become a large atrium, open to the public and the trams which will continue to regularly ride through it.

The new complex will have a total of 141,000 square meters and will “ensure a greater level of convenience for our visitors,” says a show report. The final outcome is going to do justice to the expectations of our exhibitors,” says Jacquares Diichene, trade show chairman.

Also changing will be the locations of many exhibitors, especially those watch vendors on the first floor in Hall 1. And members of the Hong Kong exhibitors pavilion, the show’s second largest, will be moving from Hall 6 to Hall 4.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

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Baselworld 2012 Closes with Strong Results, Upbeat and Confident

Business was brisk at Baselworld 2012 and the attitude of both exhibitors and buyers was upbeat and confident.

A fractured arm kept me from attending Baselworld this year Fortunately, veteran watch journalist, William George Shuster, kindly agreed to take time from his busy schedule to write a few stories from the tradeshow. Below is his fourth and final report.

By William George Shuster
Special Correspondent

BASEL, Switzerland — The just-ended Baselworld 2012, the world’s most important and largest watch and jewelry tradeshow, was one of the most successful in its history.

The eight-day show closed March 15 with a 1 percent rise in attendance (to 104,300, its second-highest attendance ever); a 9 percent gain (3,320) in the international press corps at the show; and almost universal satisfaction among vendors—especially those in the luxury sector—with the business, orders and contacts they had; and widespread confidence among retail buyers.

"It was a fascinating week, and truly a good year for us exhibitors. We are highly satisfied,” said Jacques J. Duchêne, long-time chairman of the show’s Exhibitors' Committee. Francois Thiébaud, president of the Swiss Exhibitors Committee, agreed, calling the show a "complete success."

Positive comments. Indeed, this year’s edition of the annual watch and jewelry trade fair on the Rhine in Basel, Switzerland, evoked positive comments from most vendors, both large and small.

Swiss luxury sport brand TAG Heuer, for example, welcomed 30 percent more retailers than last year. It also introduced movie star Cameron Diaz as its new brand ambassador. Luxury watch Hublot—which unveiled its one-of-a-kind $5 million diamond-encrusted timepiece--took “considerably more orders than in [2011],” said CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. At Swiss watchmaker Ellicott, “Response to our new watches—especially the world’s thinnest minute repeater with perpetual calendar (hand-wound)—was very good,” said CEO Pierre-Andre Finazzi to the show’s newspaper, “and price points and units per order are more than last year.”

Despite economic problems in Europe, the U.S. and many other regions of the world, an upbeat business attitude pervaded the fair’s buying and selling. Luxury watch brand Patek Phillippe, for example, noted “an exceedingly positive mood amongst our customers throughout the entire show,” said Jasmine Steel, international communications director, while at the Bulova Corp. stand, “People are excited about our groundbreaking products and technologies,” said Harvey Kaplan, regional vice president. “Business is hot,” declared Jacques-Philippe Auriol, CEO of TechnoMarine watches, to the show’s daily newspaper. “The booth is packed and clients are smiling.”

At Seiko, “sales are much better than expected, and there’s great interest in our new Astron GPS watch,” said Karou Matsumoto, public relations general manager. “Customers are cautiously optimistic, and we share their optimism.”

‘Gratifying’ business. In the Hong Kong delegation of vendors, the show’s second largest, “Purchasing behavior was gratifying and the potential in the boom markets, including Russia and Latin America, highly promising,” said Ralph Chow, director of product promotion for the Hong Kong Trade Development Council.

Gem dealers and vendors of technology and equipment, too, were generally upbeat about business result, as were jewelry firms. The German precious gem house of Groh + Ripp, for example, surpassed 2011’s good results by 25 percent. “The quality of the visitors was exceedingly good,” added Managing Director Bernd Willy Ripp. At Spanish jewelry firm Carrera y Carrera, “For the first time in three years, we don’t hear about the [financial] crisis,” CEO Nathalie Guedj told the BaselWolrd Daily News. “That reflects the very good business the jewelry industry did in 2011. People are confident about the future.”

The Swiss watch delegation was especially pleased. Following a record-breaking year in exports in 2011 (29.8 million watches, valued at 19.3 billion Swiss francs, or about $21 billion), its strong results for Baselworld 2012—driven in lager part by ongoing, growing demand for luxury products, especially in Asia, and China particularly, and “certain emerging markets”—promise another good year for Swiss watchmakers. “While it is always difficult to anticipate results,” said the Swiss Exhibitors Committee’s closing report. “This 40th edition [of Baselworld] augurs well for positive progress in 2012. The 20 billion franc export threshold should be easily crossed and thereby represent the third consecutive growth year [in 2012].”

The enhanced interest by the global media in the show’s news and trends and the sizeable increase in journalists covering the show was especially important to both vendors and show officials. It indicates the importance the show has gained with the global press, and “For exhibitors, the worldwide reports in the specialist, daily, business and lifestyle media, as well as in the online media, TV and radio, are of major importance,” noted Baselworld’s closing report. Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe, for example, received over 800 journalists at it stand, “a considerable increase over previous years,” noted spokesperson Jasmina Steele.

A new era. For the 104,300 visits from 100-plus nations and the 1,851 vendors from 41 countries, this was the last time they would work in the current exhibition stands or rush hurriedly through its halls. But many said they were already looking forward to what show officials call show’s “new era” starting in 2013.

The show’s owner, MCH Group, is revamping the current Exhibition Square and its surrounding buildings, with an immense makeover valued at just under half-a-billion dollars. The expensive and extensive transformation—including two new three-story building, a two-building above the formerly outside Exhibition Square, a new events hall, and the tearing down of some of the show’s older buildings—transformation is being handled by Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, who also designed the famous Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing. The new complex will have 141,000 m2.

Show Director Sylvia Ritter admitted to “a certain amount of nostalgia” for the current buildings sand fair grounds, which will be gone in weeks. “At the same time, I am looking forward impatiently and with great expectations to the new era that will be dawning for this world show,” she said.

The new complex, opening in April 2013, will also involve the relocation of many watch exhibitors in the current Hall 1 and the spending of millions of dollars by exhibitors on new exhibition booths and presentations. “Nearly all the brands will now be investing in their new stands for Baselworld 2013,” said Duchene. “This highlights the fact that we have a great deal of confidence in this [trade show] event, because [it] will be giving us exhibitors even more opportunities to experience positive developments in future."

The next show, Baselworld 2013, will be held April 25 – May 2, 2013.

William George Shuster is a multi-award winning writer—including three Jesse H. Neal Award, business journalism's highest honor. He has 40 years experience as a journalist, author and editor. He is considered one of the world’s top watch industry journalists, covering the world of timepieces for the past 30 years.

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Will New Jewelry Show Compete With Baselworld?

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Wolfram Diener (center) reading a prepared statement during a press conference at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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HONG KONG — The competition among the numerous jewelry tradeshows around the world is fierce. So when a new show appears on the international calendar, one can’t hope but notice which show will it be competing against.

UBM Asia has announced that it is entering the European market with Jewellery & Gem Fair – JGF Europe 2014, to be held in April 1 - 4, 2014 at the Messe Freiburg Exhibition and Convention Centre in Freiburg, Germany.

Wolfram Diener, senior VP, UBM Asia, Ltd., who made the announcement Thursday during a press conference at the September Hong KongJewellery & Gem Fair, made it a point to note its convenience to major jewelry trading hubs, such as Antwerp, Paris and Vicenza. What it’s really close to in both timing and distance is Baselworld, the world’s largest and most important watch and jewelry fair held in Basel, Switzerland. The two cities are so close that I stayed in Freiburg two years ago while attending Baselworld.

Diener downplayed that the new tradeshow will compete with Baselworld for exhibitors and buyers.

“It wouldn’t be our notion to rely on any other exhibitions for our success and lack of success and we expect that we can draw exhibitors or buyers from another show,” he said. “I think we have to build our own success. As for the timing of the event, it’s really difficult with a full calendar of jewelry tradeshows to not clash or be close to any other shows.”

However, a UBM official told me afterward that JGF Europe is most likely positioned to indeed compete with Baselworld. If this is true, then it will be the battle of titans. The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, which UBM owns, is the largest fine jewelry tradeshow in the world. However, as already noted, Baselworld is the largest watch and jewelry show in the world. It is also the world’s most prestigious tradeshow and it is where trends are set in the watch and jewelry world each year.

One thing that the new show will not be involved with, at least at this time, is watches, which is the lifeblood of Baselworld.

There are plenty of jewelry trade fairs in Europe but Diener says that the continent lacks “a real and comprehensive sourcing fair.” This new show is an attempt to fill this void.

“JGF Europe is positioned as high efficiency, high level, face-to-face jewelry business platform that will create real business value for the international suppliers and buyers,” he said. “It’s going to be a comprehensive jewelry show with jewelry, raw material and packaging and equipment”, he said. “It’s going to be a good balance of European and non-European exhibitors. That will be refreshingly different from other shows in Europe.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page and on Twitter  @JewelryNewsNet.

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The 206-Carat ‘Imperial Emerald’ Unveiled at Baselworld

Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Luxury jewelry firm, Bayco Jewels, unveiled a 206-carat natural Colombian emerald named the “Imperial Emerald” in its showroom Thursday during the opening day of Baselworld 2013.

Owners of the company, Moris and Giacomo Hadjibay, said it is “one of the most precious gemstones to ever exist.” The brothers say that it was purchased from a private collector who owned it for 40 years. They refuse to reveal the price of the gem.

“We paid with our hearts,” a visibly emotional Moris said. In addition, its provenance is unknown. 

Giacomo Hadjibay with the Imperial Emerald. Photo credit Anthony DeMarco

The brothers say the purchase is a tribute to their father, Amir, an Iranian native who moved to Italy in 1957 and founded Bayco not long afterward. The company specializes in one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces made with exceptional gemstones. Amir, knew the previous owner of the gem and told the owner long ago that he would buy it whenever he was ready to sell.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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UBM to Launch Jewelry Fair in Germany during Baselworld 2014

Does Baselworld have competition? Hong Kong-based tradeshow and publishing company, UBM Asia, has been coy about this but its new jewelry show in Europe will butt heads with Baselworld in 2014.

This new tradeshow called, “Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe,” will be held April 1 – 4, 2014, in Freiburg, Germany. The dates and location line up nicely with Baselworld 2014, which will be held March 27 – April 3, 2014. Freiburg is less than an hour away from Basel, Switzerland. In fact, it’s so close that when I attended Baselworld two years ago, I stayed in Freiburg

This announcement of a new tradeshow comes after the world’s largest watch and jewelry tradeshow finished a $454.5-million upgrade to the Messe Basel complex that came with several upset vendors. In fact, the 1,460 companies who exhibited at the recently concluded Baselworld 2013 was 355 fewer than those who exhibited the prior year.

The biggest player to exit Baselworld this year was David Yurman, after what was described as “‘exasperating’ back-and-forth with the powers that be at Baselworld.” People from several companies expressed their dissatisfaction to me with their booth placement, the substantial increase in the cost of participating this year, and the pressure to construct newer, larger and more expensive booths for the show. One company, which was one of the few companies to both remain in the same space and not expand their booth, told me they still had to pay 30 percent more than the prior year.

UBM Asia is refusing to acknowledge that they are creating a competing show, calling this new fair “a comprehensive sourcing fair offering a wide range of jewelry products.” It is being positioned “as a high-efficiency, high-level face-to-face jewelry business platform to create real business value for international suppliers and buyers.”

UBM says that more than 260 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions have reserved exhibition space a year ahead of its launch. “This figure represents more than 50 percent of the expected number of exhibitors and represents 60 percent of the total exhibition space which indicates the market’s enthusiasm for this new fair in Europe,” UBM said.

Exhibitors that have signed up are from Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, China, Colombia, France, Germany, Hong Kong region, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Poland, Russia, Spain, Sri Lanka, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, the United Kingdom, the United States and Zambia.

The fair is open to the jewelry trade, business professionals and members of the media. Free admission to save €30 will be granted to preregistered visitors and online preregistration opens in June 2013. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes Website.

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Independent Watch Brands Make their Mark at Baselworld 2013

The Speake-Marin Triad

It’s officially known as the “Palace” but it’s actually a small, makeshift building on the Basel fairgrounds (Messe Basel), home of Baselworld 2013, the world’s biggest and most important watch and jewelry tradeshow. Royalty may not inhabit this portable building but what is inside are some of the most creative and innovative independent watchmakers in the world. These companies are joined by equally capable small independent watch brands that were scattered among the 1,460 exhibitors throughout the massive complex of buildings.

Their visions may be entirely different, but one thing these companies do share is keen intellect, creativity and passion. The individuals who lead these small firms are highly skilled at combining the highest forms of modern watching with an advance design esthetic and a singular vision.

It was impossible for me to visit them all but what is presented below are nine companies and their products as a representative sample of the technical prowess and artistry of these firms at the recently-concluded tradeshow. They are as follows:

Arnold & Son
The Swiss company with British heritage created what it says is the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. Called the UTTE (Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Escapement), the case of this timepiece is 8.34 mm thick. It is equipped with the A&S8200 movement that is just 2.97 mm thick. The caliber was created in-house at the brand’s La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops. It is limited to 50 pieces.

Christophe Claret
The French native who operates out of Le Locle, Switzerland, introduced the Kantharos at Baselworld— a complex monopusher chronograph with an integrated in-house automatic movement. It features a striking cathedral gong at the 10 o’clock mark that chimes with each change of function. The constant-force escapement is on the dial side at 6 o’clock. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from beginning to end of the power reserve.

Da Vindice Geneva
A watch complication I never encountered is a barometer. It was a passion and challenge for Cosimo Vindice, founder of the new Geneva-based watch brand with Italian heritage, to include this and a tourbillon in a single watch built in-house. An aneroid barometer is used for the Da Vindice’s Videx Tourbillon Barometer timepiece. Atmospheric pressure is managed in a capsule, sealed with the air partially removed from it. The changes in pressure are visible on a subdial placed at 6 o’clock. The watch is designed to accommodate this complication. It is available in white or rose gold.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand
The stainless steel tonneau-shaped Grand Dome R92 Column Wheel Chronograph is another example of how this watch brand produces timepieces that combine vintage movements with modern craftsmanship and design. The R92 movement was originally fabricated in the 1950s. It uses a swivel-pinion design to synchronize the chronograph components. The dial is exposed providing full view of the movement.

Franc Vila
The Spanish native is one of the best-known and most innovative independent Swiss watchmakers in the world. The latest edition to his Intrepido Collection, the FVi No 8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton, has a skeletonized hand-wound tourbillon and 100-hour power reserve. Its set into a grade 5 titanium case coated with black DLC, with an 18k red gold bezel. Visible through the sapphire crystal, the dial exposes the in-house movement.

Linde Werdelin
The German watch brand launched the Oktopus II Moon in a series of 59 pieces, available in two versions. The first 12 pieces, representing one piece for each moon of the 2013 calendar year, feature a rose gold and titanium DLC case with ceramic bezel. The following 47 pieces are available in a DLC titanium case with a ceramic bezel. The Oktopus II Moon’s complication, developed in-house, displays the phases of the moon on its dial as one would see it in the sky. As the moon moves clockwise through its monthly cycle, more of its surface is illuminated.

MB&F
The company that released a music box at Baselworld 2013 also decided it was a good idea to release an advancement to its well-known Horological Machine No. 3 (HM3) series: The Megawind. The focus of this piece is a giant battle-axe shaped winding rotor that swings unhurriedly, but indomitably, over the hand-finished movement. The titanium arms of the rotor intermittently reveal views through to the oscillating balance wheel. It’s available in red gold with a 22k red gold rotor or white gold with a sky-blue 22k gold rotor.

Speake-Marin (top photo)
One of the most passionate and intelligent independent watchmakers I met at Baselworld 2013 is British native Peter Speake-Marin, founder of the eponymous Swiss watch brand. His creations are complex in their functions and their stories, yet they adhere to the tradition of fine Swiss watchmaking. The Triad features triple hour-minute indications over an open dial powered by an Eros 2 automatic winding movement. Three is a number heavy with symbolism and meaning; encompasses beginning, middle and end; birth, life, and death; past, present and future. In music, a triad is a three-note chord played simultaneously to provide a single sound. It is available in a limited edition of 88 pieces in stainless steel with an 18k red gold bezel.

York
The new release of the Royal Black Caviar watch has all of the pomp one would expect from a watch brand fronted by Earl York, a prince of the former Schaumburg-Lippe, a tiny principality in the Lower Saxony region of modern-day Germany. The watch comes in a handcrafted Wengé case that includes a caviar service for two. However, this timepiece is more than just packaging. It is a serious traditional watch created by the Schaumburg Watch company, which York serves as creative director and shareholder. The 18k, 44 mm gold case is topped by a bezel set with 53 black diamonds and five black diamonds on the crown. The black textured strap is made of indo-pacific stingray leather with a textured finish that is looks like caviar eggs. The mechanical movement SW 07 is made in house. It is available in a limited edition of 99.

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Jewelry Trends at Baselworld 2013

Diamond and white gold necklace from Qayten (description below).

Whether it’s through craftsmanship, materials, artistry or innovation, the Italians always make their mark when it comes to jewelry design and this year was no different as brands large and small showcased sparkling and shimmering pieces at Baselworld 2013.

But they were not alone. The French brought its own brand of elegant and delicate designs. German creations were accessible and colorful. The U.S. and Israeli brands brought their glittering best to the party as well. New brands presented products that were competitive with established companies proving there is room for growth in the jewelry trade. And where does one place Fabergé these days? The iconic brand with the royal Russian heritage is now an international contemporary jeweler with one foot in its rich history and the other in its promising future.

There was a crazy, colorful quilt of jewelry to be seen and if only I could be cloned I could have experienced most of it. What follows is a selection of the some of the standout products in a variety of price points and materials that I had the chance to view. 

Casato
Based in Rome and led by Federico Gauttieri, the Italian jewelry brand creates jewelry made primarily with 18k gold and a variety of colored gemstones. The ruby and diamond-centric Dragon Eye is one of the lines introduced by the brand at Baselworld 2013, which includes this 18k rose gold pendant.

Charriol
Steel cable with accents of yellow or rose gold PVD are used to create modern and affordable jewelry for the Forever Young jewelry line. The standout pieces are the 69mm wide cuff bracelets in a crisscross design for a look that mixes elegance with attitude. 

Fabergé
The new Fabergé begins with its purchase by mining company Gemfields, which specializes in emeralds and amethysts from Zambia. Now the company has a direct pipeline for these colored gems. At baselworld 2013, it introduced the high jewelry collection, Les Danses Fantasques, that takes its inspiration from the Great Russian ballets. The collection features several suites, each focusing on a necklace with matching earrings and rings. An example of this is the La Esmeralda necklace pictured. Its part of suite that includes earrings and a ring covered in emeralds and diamonds, inspired by the romantic ballet of the same name. The necklace features white diamonds, suspended on a double chain of cabochon emerald beads and pear-shaped emerald drops.

Fope
The Vicenza, Italy-based company introduced new models to its “Flex’it” collection of crafted 18k gold jewelry. It is fully flexible due to tiny gold springs in the construction. The geometrical design is ehanced by squared white or black diamond paves and a range of interchangeable rondels.

Judith Ripka
The popular U.S. jewelry designer was at Baselworld 2013 showing her gold and silver jewelry collections, including these teardrop-shaped African Ruby Earrings, made of 18k gold with rose cut and full cut diamonds, and a 1.04-ct. African Ruby as a center stone.

Meissen
The 300-plus-year-old manufacturer of porcelain products has produced jewelry for a number of years. The company introduced “my little Mystery” collection, which uses a mix of diamonds and white or rose gold with pastel-colored gemstones. It includes this pendant-necklace made of hand-painted “ice green” porcelain with a diamond in the center and rose gold and diamond on its edge. 

Neelia
This is a new jewelry brand is from a Parisian jewelry manufacturer Gay Frères. Baselworld was the brand’s coming out party for its four lines of delicate, feminine jewelry based on simple motifs. As the name suggests, Twirl (pictured) is based on spiral shapes that are made with 18k pink and white gold occasionally covered in diamond pave. 

Nouvelle Bague
Florence-based jewelry designer released the Giardini Di Boboli line of hand-crafted enamel jewelry, including this earrings and ring set in black and “Bordeaux” enamel, rose gold, diamonds and carnelian.

Porrati
Among its introductions at Baselworld, this Italian brand released a series of rings with white pearls and rose gold; pink sapphires set on rose gold; rose gold; and sapphires on rose gold. These same combinations are also available on bangles.

Qayten (top photo)
This new Italian jewelry company specializes in contemporary high-end jewelry made out of a variety of materials. The necklace pictured is named Bologna, the firm’s hometown. It is made of white gold covered in diamonds that takes the shape of a wave. 

Stefan Hafner
The Bologna-based jewelry design firm introduced the nature-inspired Angelica collection of ruby and marquise diamonds jewelry, including these earrings with the rubies set in rows topped by diamonds in the form of small flowers.

Yvel
The Israeli company came to Baselworld with a flurry of new product that combines 18k yellow gold with baroque pearls in textured, organic shapes. The bracelet pictured is good example of the jewelry introduced by the firm, which in this case used three white fresh water pearls to provide a color contrast to the irregular gold shapes.  

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The Swatch Group Brands at Baselworld 2013 (including Harry Winston)

Harry Winston Opus XIII

The powerful presence of the Swatch Group was present like never before at Baselworld 2013, taking up a larger chunk of the renovated Hall 1.0, the most prestigious area at the show for the majority of its 19 watch brands, which span just about every segment of the watch industry.

In addition, the company, which also owns watch movement manufacturers and retail brands, hosted a separate museum-quality exhibition in Hall 2.0 for its Swatch timepieces; the brand that has been the most responsible for the company’s enormous success.

The newest brand under Swatch Group’s enormous umbrella, Harry Winston, still had its own space in Hall 1.1, as the $1 billion acquisition occurred in March, well too late  for Harry Winston to be folded into the other company holdings (perhaps next year).

Below are some of new releases from the seven brands in the group that I had the chance to visit during the eight-day tradeshow. I included Harry Winston as the company's new CEO, Nayla Hayek, was announced Friday.

Blancpain Carrousel, Minute Repeater and Chronograph
The Swiss luxury watch brand has created a fully mechanical watch that combines a one-minute flying carrousel (similar to a tourbillon) and a minute repeater with a flyback chronograph.

For the minute repeater, the blades of its cathedral gong wrap one and a half times around the movement to emit the sound. Its transmission is optimized by fixing the gongs inside the case, which increases volume and clarity. A flying governor reduces the background noise produced by the movement.

The pusher for the chronograph function with the flyback or instant-restart function (historically used by pilots) is located at 4 o’clock and enables the wearer to restart a time measurement while a first measurement is in progress.

The watch comes in a red gold 45 mm case with a chapter ring, a 30-minute and hour-markers in grand feu enamel. The open dial and sapphire crystal case-back provides in-depth views of this complex device.

Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727
Available in rose or white gold, the watch is fitted with the new in-house caliber 574DR, which has a balance frequency of 10Hz.thus, improving the time-keeping performance of the balance and spring. It is fitted with a double balance-spring, pallet lever and escape wheel, all in specially prepared silicon. The result is a regulating power equivalent to around 830 microwatts. Despite its high frequency, it has a power reserve of 60 hours.

However, Breguet says the major innovation of this model is the use of magnetic pivots, which not only controls the negative effects of magnetism in a watch, but also uses the magnetic force to improve the pivoting, rotation and stability of the balance staff.

The dial shows an off-center chapter of hours and minutes, small seconds at 12 o'clock, a power-reserve indicator at 5 o'clock and a tenth-of-a-second indicator at 1 o'clock having a patented lightweight silicon hand with low inertia that doesn’t affect the balance. The pare-chute is visible at 2 o'clock, both as a reminder of A-L Breguet’s 1790 invention and to make the timepiece slimmer.

The dial is engine-turned in six patterns: “Geneva waves” in the center, a hobnail pattern for the small seconds, sunrays on the tenth-of-a-second dial and chevrons for the power-reserve indicator. The hours chapter is cross-hatched while a barleycorn pattern decorates the outer edge. The hands are in polished steel with the Breguet open tip, while the case displays delicate fluting.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator
This new timepiece unites the classic regulator display with an officially certified manual winding chronometer movement.

The dominant central position on the lacquered silver-grainé dial is the blue minute hand with its polished eye. On the central axis above and below the minute indicator are smaller hour and seconds displays.

The Glashütte Original panorama date display is placed at 3 o’clock. The date change takes place at midnight. From 6 in the morning until 6 in the evening, the small circle in the region of the hour display is white; from 6 pm until 6 am it is black. This timepiece is framed by a 42 mm polished case in red gold or a white gold version.

The watch is driven by the caliber 58-04, which permits the precise coordination of minute and seconds hands. A second-zero-stop-mechanism makes it is easy for the wearer to set the exact time. When winding the crown, the time display is stopped, the second hand jumps to zero and remains there. At the same time, the minute hand is also moved to the next full minute index. When one winds the crown to set the time, the minute hand always rests only on the full minute indices. This provides the correct relationship of the displayed seconds and minutes. A power reserve display at 9 o’clock indicates the energy remaining in the manual winding movement.

The watch is officially certified and bears a certificate from the German Calibration Service after a 15-day testing period.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator
The H-12 movement in this watch allows the separation of the minute and hour hands on  different axials and sub-dials. The idea is to make the watch more accurate and provide an easier way for the person who owns the timepiece to read the time. However, I think most people wear such a watch is because of the appearance. Add to this the blue or silver dial and you have watch that can be worn for casual or formal occasions. There are three 42mm timepieces in the collection. In addition to the dial choice straps come in either leather or stainless steel.


Harry Winston Opus XIII (top photo)
It was difficult to determine which of the many technically advanced and aesthetically pleasing timepieces from this luxury brand to show. In the end I chose the newest addition to its iconic Opus collection. Opus is the watch that introduced Harry Winston to the world as more than just luxury jeweler. Each year the brand works with gifted independent watchmakers to build a timepiece with the goal of defying the conventional rules of watchmaking.

This year the newest member of the Swatch Group created a watch where the minutes accumulate around a track. Eleven rotating silver triangles spring from a faceted dome to show the hours. Every 12 hours, Harry Winston’s logo is appears on the dial and vanishes after sixty minutes. The 59 minute hands pivot on a ring of steel shafts that are held in place by 242 ruby bearings.

The mechanical watch is powered by the in-house HW4101 movement, which has 364 components. The case is made of 18k white gold.

Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse
This newest version of the Eclispe line presents a new moon phase complication, which displays the cycles of the night of the sky on the dial, with the perpetual calendar complication. On the black or ivory-colored Grand Feu enamel dial, two straight hands contrast with the curves of two wavy hands, tipped with a crescent moon. The calendar information is easily read on several places on the dial: on the right is the date, on the left is the day of the week. At 12 o’clock, a single-hand counter indicates the month with the leap year appearing in a small window. At 6 o’clock, a black or ivory-colored onyx index moves across the face of a golden moon, revealing, and then concealing it until its total eclipse, unfolding on a night sky of eight golden stars, the watchmaker’s favorite number. The timepiece is powered by a Jaquet Droz 5853LR.4 self-winding mechanical movement, double barrel, perpetual calendar, retrograding moon phase, 22-carat white gold oscillating weight.

Longines Heritage Military 1938
Following Orb’s victory in the Kentucky Derby, Longines, the Official Watch and Timekeeper for the celebrated race, awarded the horse’s owner, trainer and jockey with watches from the brand’s Saint-Imier collection at the event’s Winners’ Circle Party. The Swiss watchmaking brand was the Official Watch and Timekeeper of Kentucky Derby 139 and Entitlement Partner of Longines Kentucky Oaks 139. Now the luxury watch brand is Paris where it is the Official Timekeep of Roland-Garros, home of the French Open.

Prior to both events, the brand was in Baselworld showing off its new watch collections. Among them was the Longines Heritage Military 1938, which uses the same aesthetics based on the design of a military watch produced by Longines in the 1930s. With a diameter of 42 mm and fitted with the automatic calibre L705, this timepiece displays the hours and minutes, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, the date at 6 o’clock and the small second at 9 o’clock. Large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova and a minute circle white as well contrasts with the deep matt black of the dial.

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Large Independent Watch Brands at Baselworld 2013

Patek Philippe Ref. 5200 Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Date Indication

The sharks are circling this next group of watch brands that I saw at Baselworld 2013. By sharks I mean Swatch Group, LVMH, PPR/Kering and others like them who gobble up independent watch companies like Yellowfins with a never ending appetite. These companies (and a few others) are for the most part large and successful and have managed to keep their independence.

This independence is something they wear proudly and even use for their marketing. They all claim that they will remain free of the luxury conglomerates but others who have made the same vow have fallen to the seduction of these companies and their deep pockets as well as the new realities of a global watch business.

So here’s a chance to view the labor of independent companies before the sharks take another other bite out of these remaining few.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5200 Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Date Indication (top photo)
Arguably the most successful Swiss watch company in history, it's difficult to imagine this company being anything but independent.

For this model, Patek developed a new mechanical caliber with Silinvar components created at the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” think tank. The result is a form movement with a genuine 8-day power-reserve display. The watch is housed in a curved Art Deco style case.

The rectangular caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J was developed for the Ref. 5200 Gondolo. In twin in-line barrels it stores the power needed to guarantee that it will run non-stop for 192 hours. The winding mechanism requires 134 revolutions every eight days. The day and date indicators are located on the “sunshine blue” dial at 6 o’clock and the power reserve function is at 12 o’clock.

Patek says the movement’s eight-day staying power with the day and date apertures is due to the patented oscillator with a Spiromax balance spring and a Pulsomax escapement. It is the manufacture’s first 4-hertz movement with these patented elements. The watch is also available with a white dial.

Oris ProDiver Pointer Moon
Oris says this professional diver’s watch is the world's first mechanical timepiece to indicate both the lunar cycle and the tidal range.

The watch was inspired by its brand ambassador, commercial diver Roman Frischknecht. The dial design indicates the tidal range and lunar cycle at a glance, removing the need for divers to consult manuals. It incorporates Oris's patented Rotation Safety System, which allows the wearer to keep track of a certain time period using a rotating bezel that can be locked to prevent accidental adjustment, and an automatic helium escape valve.

The automatic movement, Oris Cal. 761, is based on a Sellita SW220 with pointer moon function and a date display at 5 o’clock. Its titanium case is water resistant to 1,000m. For ease of readability for divers, the sapphire crystal is domed on both sides and has an inner anti-reflective coating. It is available in northern and southern hemisphere tide range indication.

Corum Ti-Bridge Automatic Dual Winder
Corum’s latest addition to the Bridges collection has a “Dual Winder” system powered by the automatic CO 207 caliber. This movement derives its energy from two interconnected inline oscillating weights. The watch also boasts a patented winding system and a new titanium case.

The patented Corum Dual Winder system features two inline-mounted circular oscillating weights, interconnected by a transmission arbor that makes them move in parallel. The winding is efficient in both directions. A single barrel placed at 3 o’clock stores up the CO 207 caliber’s 72-hour power reserve. The CO 207 movement is held in the center of the case by four titanium cross-bars. The impression of a suspended mechanism is further accentuated by its transparency, framed by an anthracite grey dial. It is available in grade 5 titanium and in 5N 18k red gold.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero MoonPhase Limited Edition
This watch marks the 125-year anniversary when Carl Friedrich Bucherer founded the company. It provides the date, day of the week and the month with a moonphase.

The date is shown by a hand around the center of the dial. The day of the week indicator is positioned at 10 o’clock, and the month can be seen at 2 o’clock. The moonphase indication is positioned at 6 o’clock. The watch is powered by the automatic CFB 1966 caliber.

With a diameter of 38 mm, the bicolored case is made of 18k rose gold and stainless steel. In spite of the many indications, optimum legibility is enhanced by the wedge-shaped index marks and the tapering Super-Luminova-coated hours and minutes hands. The moonphase indication has a gold-colored moon shining out against a blue background. It is limited to 125 pieces.

Nomos Glashütte Orion 38 Gray
This latest version of the Orion at 38mm is a bit wider than the usual Orion and has a touch of gray. the standard Nomos caliber (with the hand-wound Alpha movement ) is visible through the sapphire crystal back. The face is galvanized and rhodium-plated in silver-gray, which gives it a glazed appearance. The watch’s indices are embossed and diamond-coated. It is one of a series of four Orion 38 watches that were introduced at Baselworld. The company hails from Glashütte, the watchmaking capital of Germany.

Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture
Five new models of the Slimline Moonphase Collection were introduced at Baselworld and all are driven by the FC-705 Manufacture caliber.

Each complication in the watch is accessed through a three-position single crown. “Position 0” is for winding the watch. At “Position 1,” the date can be adjusted by turning the crown clockwise. Turning the crown counter clockwise adjusts the moonphase. “Position 2” is used to adjust the hour and minute hands.

Other features include the slimline design and a case diameter of 42 mm. Each dial presents the date display and moonphase at the 6 o’clock position. A new technology known as “laser ablation” was used to create a detailed and precise image of the moon. Finally, each model comes with a 26-jewel movement, a 42-hour power reserve and a Circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement.

Alpina 130 Heritage Pilot Automatic Chronograph
This watch celebrates Alpina’s 130th anniversary. The “Bi-compax" chronograph was inspired by an Alpina pilot chronograph from the beginning of the 20th Century.

The Alpina 130 features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that guarantees perfect contrast between all elements of the dial, regardless of the angle of the light shining on the watch. The classic dial design, with telemeter and tachymeter scales provides a balance between technicality, elegance and readability. The transparent case back allows a view of the AL-860 automatic chronograph caliber with its fine fish scales decoration and blue screws.

The tachymeter scale gives the means to measure average speed of movement, while the telemeter scale provides the distance between the source of a specific sound effect and the position of the listener. These functions are important for pilots and drivers who rely on time, speed and distance variables.

Raymond Weil Freelancer 7730
The new additions to the watch brand’s Freelancer chronograph collection include a 42mm steel case watch with black galvanic dial punctuated with red colored notes. The steel-colored minute and hour hands are coated in a luminescent material providing night-time visibility. It has a seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a three-day date and day window at 3 o’clock, adjusted by a push pin also at 3 o’clock. The chronograph start, stop and restart push-button is at 2 o’clock and a reset button at 4 o’clock. In addition, there’s a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.

Jacob & Co. Quenttin Tourbillion Baguette
The company known for its over-the-top flare and dramatic reinterpretations of timepieces released its latest version of the Quenttin Tourbillion, which in this case is covered in baguette-shaped diamonds. The curved case measures 56 x 47 x 21.55mm and is topped with 26.01 carats of diamonds. The satin-finished titanium and 18k rhodium-plated, polished white gold is set with 453 diamonds (23.81 carats). The tourbillon is visible through a side window.

The dial indicators are on revolving cylindrical drums with Super-luminova Arabic numerals, with the central hours cylinder and minutes cylinder to the right; and power reserve indication on the left cylinder. The movement is a manual-winding Jacob & Co. MHC-manufactured caliber 9031 with one-minute vertical tourbillon; frequency 21’600 vph, seven spring barrels and 31-day power reserve.

Black vulcanized rubber strap with 18k white gold deployment buckle is set with 40 baguette diamonds (2.20 carats). It is limited to six pieces.

Perrelet Turbine Chrono
The watch brand created a timepiece collection incorporating a chronograph into a Turbine powered by an in-house P-361 automatic movement. The chronograph measurements are provided by a central seconds chronograph hand and a 60-minute counter. The former runs over a large inner bezel surrounding the dial, while the latter is composed of two juxtaposed sapphire crystal elements. A graduated mobile disk turns in the center of a fixed ring marked with a red arrow bearing the inscription “min” and pointing to the recorded times. The transparency of the chronograph counter allows the signature rotor of the Turbine watch to remain visible.

Five chronographs make up the collection in 47 mm-diameter cases with tachometric bezels and applied rings. There are three variations in graded shades of black and white, one enhanced with 4N pink gold, and an All-Black model.

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